The compressed style of the Merlot is evident in the 1997 Old Vine Shiraz Reserve. This compact, black currant and berry-scented and flavored wine is medium-bodied and elegant, with good ripeness and a stylish, nicely-textured finish. It will drink well for 7-8 years. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (408) 689-9080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 534-3421

An outstanding offering from Richard Hamilton is the 1996 Old Vine Shiraz Reserve (made from 105-year old vines). The wine offers explosive richness, a big, thick, melted tar, blackberry, peppery-scented nose, thick, dense, viscously-textured, full-bodied flavors, and a juicy, intense finish. It should continue to drink well for 5-10 years.