One of the few New Zealand Pinots that benefit from decanting in their youth, Rippon's 2016 Mature Vine Pinot Noir packs in raspberries, hints of Asian five spice powder and delicate herbal notes behind a wall of crushed stone and firm but ripe tannins. It's medium to full-bodied, with a long, slightly chewy finish. Don't be afraid to lose this one in the cellar for 5 or more years.

Tasting Rippon wines young is not always a fun exercise. The 2015 Mature Vine Pinot Noir, in particular, wasn't happy at being roused from its bottle. Like a surly djinn, it pouted, griped and sulked, grudgingly offering up muted aromas of berries and spice. Yet this medium-bodied wine shines in the mouth and will surely emerge from its funk within a few years' time. The texture is dense and fine, with the feel of high thread-count bed linens, and the long finish shows hints of the black cherry fruit and complex spice notes that await the patient.

Just beginning to emerge from its post-bottling showdown, the 2013 Mature Vine Pinot Noir (released back in 2016) dresses up layers of dark fruit with hints of dusty earth and floral notes. Plum and black cherry fruit are carried by ample weight and richness, underscored by dark chocolate notes and a long, dry, softly dusty finish.