A certified organic and biodynamic wine, the Rivetto dal 1902 2019 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba shows medium-rich concentration and an aromatic profile that embraces savory spice and tobacco. It ages in both Hungarian and Slavonian oak casks for two years. You get some of the more powerful or weighty elements of the Nebbiolo playbook with black cherry, iron ore and dried rose.

The Rivetto dal 1902 2017 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba shows more grit and power than most of the other Barolos in this flight, with a healthy serving of darkly concentrated fruit, sweet blackberry and cherry confit. Toasted oak, cedar sweetness and exotic spice also make an appearance. This modern take on Serralunga d'Alba relies on a more prominent use of oak to soften tannins and render a more immediate wine. Still, you get tannic astringency on the close. Some 20,000 bottles were made.

The Rivetto dal 1902 2016 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba is a textbook expression of Nebbiolo from this comune, or village. The wine shows structure and power, with aromas that recall dried cherry, candied orange peel, rusty nail and spent embers. Thanks to 30 months of oak aging, the tannins are well integrated, albeit youthful. The fruit used here is a blend from the Serra, Manocino and San Bernardo vineyards of Serralunga d'Alba that are characterized by calcareous marl soils and are all relatively high, at 340 to 420 meters above sea level, where they benefit from soft breezes that keep the vines healthy. Production counts 15,000 bottles in this vintage.

The 2014 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba plays its cards closer to its chest. There is abundant dark fruit on the bouquet, but it takes a moment or two longer before you are able to focus in on spice, tar, smoke and cola. Despite its birthplace in Serralunga d'Alba (where structured and bigger wines are the norm), this vintage shows a delicate medley of tannins and freshness that converge with harmony on the palate.

The 2013 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba is a reasonably priced Nebbiolo that, in this vintage, offers a superior sense of elegance and balance. The wine delivers thick lines and dark fruit flavors that wrap over the palate with rich intensity and length. Despite its youth, this new release delivers an immediate and accessible personality that makes it appropriate for near-term drinking.