The 2009 Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit Cialla is a sticky, sweet wine with impressive intensity and depth that carries it forward. The wine opens to aromas of candied fruit, sun-dried apricot, fig, brown sugar, chestnut honey and spicy green herb like dried mint and curry leaf. The mouth-feel is thick, soft and smooth. This luscious dessert wine delivers balanced sweetness that makes its anything but banal or ordinary. It will no doubt increase in complexity and intensity over the next few years. Drink: 2015-2028. Founded by Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi, Ronchi di Cialla is an under-the-radar estate that had played an important role in affirming the territorial identity of Albana in the township of Prepotto. Specifically, their contribution has been the revival of almost-extinct indigenous grapes. When they started working with Schioppettino (also known as Ribolla Nera) in the early 1970’s, less than 100 vines of the grapes existed. The estate follows natural and organic winemaking functions with ambient yeasts and slow, steady macerations (for whites and reds alike). These are fascinating, inspiring wines. Importer: Soilair Selection, www.soilairselection.com

Cialla Picolit performs well save for the bitter flavors on the close that slightly disturb an otherwise pretty picture. The wine offers aromas of soapy flower or potpourri with dried fruits and almond skin. The finish is sweet with contrasting sensations of sourness and bitterness.——M.L.(12/15/2009)—— 86