The 2009 Rosso di Jacopo emerges from the glass with blackberry jam, spices, tar and licorice. This layered, generous red possesses superb intensity, fine balance and compelling inner perfume. Hints of white flowers add lift on the expressive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095, Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

The 2007 Rosso di Jacopo is the estate’s entry-level red. It is made from young Merlot vines and aged in neutral French oak. Small berries, dried flowers and sweet spices are some of the aromas that emerge from this tasty, vinous red. The Rosso di Jacopo is best suited to near-term enjoyment. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is the most impressive set of wines I have ever tasted from Ronco del Gnemiz and proprietor Serena Palazzolo. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477