The 2009 Sauvignon Peri is a gorgeous, focused wine that adds elements of varietal tomato leaf, sage and mint to a core of ripe, expressive fruit. This beautiful Loire-style Sauvignon deftly balances varietal character, Friulian terroir and gorgeous fruit. Crushed rocks, minerals and saline notes frame the exquisite finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This is the most impressive set of wines I have ever tasted from Ronco del Gnemiz and proprietor Serena Palazzolo. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477

The 2007 Sauvignon Peri flows onto the palate with an opulent, round expression of fruit. The Sauvignon aromatics are beautifully balanced with the rest of the wine. Nothing in particular stands out, just the wine’s impeccable balance and long, polished finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Proprietor Serena Palazzolo makes a wide range of wines from her holdings in the Colli Orientali. At their best, the wines can be interesting, but too often quality remains irregular, as is the case with the barrel-fermented Chardonnay Sol. That said, I have tasted enough outstanding wines from Ronco del Gnemiz to know that the raw materials are there for the estate to make more consistently outstanding wines. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477