Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Kollmutz Reserve, Wachau, Austria

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1842

The Rudi Pichler 2007 Gruner Veltliner Kollmutz Reserve – from a recently acquired parcel in Kollmutz that not only has its own personality, but also seems consistently to be getting too ripe for Smaragd – features diverse tropical fruits in a voluminous, oily-rich matrix. A pungent, tart bite of fresh pineapple, white pepper, and bitter black coffee inform a long finish. Neither the wine’s 14.9% alcohol, nor its residual sugar is in evidence as such. It is understandable why Pichler wanted to give this extended lees contact, and I have not tasted it since bottling. The finished 2006 shares with this wine its pungency and oily richness, reinforced rather than marred by the wine’s 15% alcohol. That said, wines like this are almost bound to remain a taste that only some will acquire. Pichler’s 2007s differ very little in gross chemistry from his 2006s – including the high alcohol of several Gruner Veltliner – yet they have dramatically different personalities. Pichler compares them with his 1997s, and perhaps time in bottle will more clearly bear out that high praise. Rudi Pichler is a great believer in watchfully letting nature take its course and although some of his 2007s came in with pH levels many growers would consider alarmingly high he gave no thought to adjusting them, and the finished wines bear him out, displaying the vivacity and freshness typical of 2007.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700