The Pichler 2010 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl delivers a dynamic interaction of apricot and grapefruit accented by salt and chalk, albeit with less ingratiating and irresistible savor than its generic (i.e. “Terrassen”) counterpart. Pithy piquancy of apricot kernel in the persistent finish underscores both the palpable density and the relatively austere sense of things mineral conveyed, appropriately enough you might say, for a site that contains marble. And there is a high-toned distilled fruit throughout as well. Look for at least 6-8 years of interest. “Early on, we were concerned about the high acidity,” admits Rudi Pichler “but when we did the first analyses, still in September, they already showed a one-to-one ratio of tartaric to malic acid. And the rain was not a bad thing really, as it insured that the vines deposited enormous extract in the grapes. In the end, a small adjustment to the Riesling Federspiel as wine was the only de-acidification I did.” Pichler is a stickler for getting his wines to finish dry, and residual sugar was the last thing he said he could imagine benefiting his 2010s. “For us, leaving behind sugar just doesn’t work. The sugar and acidity stand in opposition to one another, and I just don’t like that sort of wine, it’s not harmonious” he insists. Anywhere from 36 hours to three days of pre-fermentative skin contact – about which Pichler is seldom shy – probably enhanced the sense of extract and wealth of flavors on display in this collection; and given what was apparently the unusually high ratio of tartaric to malic acidity in Pichler’s fruit he could afford losing as precipitant some extra measure of the former, which typically happens with extended maceration. “But you have to know which parts of your vineyards can support this treatment,” he adds. Long stays on the lees – also part of the usual regimen – were surely beneficial. It would be very hard to argue with the success one tastes here from 2010, a vintage in which Pichler harvested all the way up to November 23, and one that in all modesty he clearly considers (as do I) a personal triumph.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2007 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl is vividly peachy, with high-toned penetrating aromatic notes of citrus oil and fruit and herbal distillates that carry onto an oily rich palate, where mint, oregano, lemon, and peach are deployed with enormous refreshment and liveliness. Stony, chalky site-typical notes add to the long, pungent, citric, bitter-sweet, and persistently sappy finish. The textural richness and ripe flavors on display here belie this wine’s merely 13% alcohol, and it should age nicely for at least 5-7 years. Pichler’s 2007s differ very little in gross chemistry from his 2006s – including the high alcohol of several Gruner Veltliner – yet they have dramatically different personalities. Pichler compares them with his 1997s, and perhaps time in bottle will more clearly bear out that high praise. Rudi Pichler is a great believer in watchfully letting nature take its course and although some of his 2007s came in with pH levels many growers would consider alarmingly high he gave no thought to adjusting them, and the finished wines bear him out, displaying the vivacity and freshness typical of 2007.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl represents a big step up in concentration and clarity from the corresponding generic Smaragd. Piquant in its citrus zest and fruit pit intensity, and positively stony in its minerality, this Riesling nevertheless offers juicy refreshment from pungent start to gripping finish. Faintly oily in texture and with impressive fullness, this wine proves Pichler’s thesis that this site and grape can take extended (in this case 30 hours of) skin contact. This should age nicely for 5-7 years. Rudi Pichler picked and vinified with his usual sensitivity, thereby achieving a surprisingly broad stylistic range, even though the total length of harvest was unusually short. Flowering here just escaped the period of intense June heat that led to a reduced crop at most Wachau addresses.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Steinriegl, from chalk and marble terroir, is – in Pichler’s experience – usually open and expressive at an early stage, and this is no exception. Apple, peach, and ripe tomato aromas introduce a palate with salty, chalky, bracing mineral character along with generously juicy apply fruit, leading to an exuberant yet firmly mineral finish. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($23.00; 85)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Riesling was so slow to ripen this year that some of Pichler’s contract growers who farm top-notch sites panicked and picked what ended up becoming a quite pleasant Steinfeder: not exactly what Pichler had in mind. Another oddity of the vintage is a 2004 Riesling Steinriegl that, as the absence of further modifiers suggests, is neither Federspiel nor Smaragd, but rather a blend of each. Smelling of distilled raspberry and sea salt, this medium-bodied Riesling offers bright, salt and red fruit character along with attractively floral notes on the palate and quite satisfying length. Frankly, what this might lack in complexity (of which there might well be more in another year) it makes up for in sheer verve and lip-smacking satisfaction. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700