Sandeman excels with its reserve-level sherries, as is exemplified by this stand-out PX. Figs and raisins are front and center throughout, but it never sits heavily on your palate. Just the opposite, there’s plow-through acidity that creates a brilliant mouthfeel and the sensation of freshness. Fabulous by itself or on top of vanilla ice cream. ——M.S.(6/1/2005)—— 93