Sanford's full-bodied, compelling 1992 Chardonnay Barrel Select hits the palate with the power of a full-force gale, remains there for a lengthy period, and finishes with a whollop of juicy, buttery fruit buttressed by decent acidity. It is an extroverted, rich, boldly-styled Chardonnay with all its components in balance. The oak is barely noticeable because of the superb extraction of fruit. The bouquet has yet to fully emerge, but there is no doubting that Sanford has produced another winner. It was made to be drunk with lobster! Drink it over the next several years. Tel. (805) 688-3300.

The 1991 Chardonnay-Barrel Select-Unfiltered makes for a huge mouthful of buttery tropical fruit. Full-bodied and loaded, this full-throttle Chardonnay's richness and fruit nearly buries the abundant quantities of toasty new oak. The crisp acidity puts everything in focus in this blockbuster Chardonnay. My experience with the aging of California Chardonnay has been one disappointment after another, so don't tempt fate! Drink this beauty over the next 12-18 months.As the scores attest, Sanford is one of California's most fashionable wineries. Consumers are demanding more flavor and complexity, and Sanford's wines deliver the goods. While these wines may be criticized for lacking subtlety, they are exciting wines that can dazzle the palate. Long known for its brilliant, dramatic, oaky Chardonnays, lovers of that lusty, no-holds-barred style of Chardonnay will be thrilled with Sanford's current releases. Tel. (805) 688-3300