From young vines in the Heiligenstein and Gaisberg, Moosbrugger’s 2007 Riesling Urgestein is another bright, brash, exuberant expression of its grape and vintage, with a lot of tactile sizzle suggesting citrus zest, pungent herbs, and a suggestion of mineral dust. Yet, outgoing though it is, there is a certain sort of austerity here too, thanks to a spare texture, a mere 12% alcohol, and its elements of finishing bitterness and fruit skin tartness. This will prove extremely useful over at least the next 2-3 years, but require pairings that complement its striking personality. Michael Moosbrugger did not begin his main white wine harvest – even for lighter-weight Gruner Veltliner – until mid-October. Unlike most Krems area growers he also picked nobly sweet wine, based on a late bloom of botrytis. Moosbrugger seems to have achieved some (considering the weather) surprisingly successful reds in 2007, having painstakingly cut off half of each cluster to inhibit the development of rot, then harvested prior to any of his whites. (I’ll report on those reds after I have re-tasted them from bottle. For notes on two outstanding 2006 vintage reds which have since lived up to their promise in bottle, consult my report in issue 177.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Smoke and diesel aromas combine with honey and pear flavors in this rich yet dry wine. The flavors are complex and weighty without being heavy; the only nit-pick is that a trace of alcohol shows on the long, spicy finish. —J.C.——J.C.(3/1/2002)—— 87