The 2006 Primitivo Critera (from 25 year-old vines) is gorgeous and sleek in its layers of perfumed black cherries, sweet herbs, chocolate, spices, licorice and leather. Despite the wine’s richness it also remains surprisingly light on its feet, quite an accomplishment for this relative of Zinfandel. A dark, sensual beauty, the wine offers terrific length and tons of character. It is a gem at this price. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. An Acid Inc. Selection for Angels' Share Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 687 4848