The 2006 Primitivo Cubardi offers up dark plums, sweet spices, tobacco and worn-in leather, all of which come together on a mid-weight frame. The 2006 shows good secondary development in its aromas and flavors, and is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. I especially like the way the wine freshens up in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243

The 2005 Primitivo Cubardi (from 65 year-old vines) is a big, super-ripe wine bursting with dark, opulent fruit, mocha and licorice. In this vintage the French oak seems to dominate the balance and obscures much of the detail that is found in the finest years. Still, the Cubardi offers excellent value in Primitivo from Puglia. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243

The 2004 Primitivo Cubardi (from 45 year-old vines) is an opulent, seamless wine loaded with plums, chocolate, spices and leather that coats the palate with superb density and richness. This is a gorgeous effort. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. An Acid Inc. Selection for Angels' Share Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 687 4848