The 2005 Primitivo Cubardi (from 65 year-old vines) is a big, super-ripe wine bursting with dark, opulent fruit, mocha and licorice. In this vintage the French oak seems to dominate the balance and obscures much of the detail that is found in the finest years. Still, the Cubardi offers excellent value in Primitivo from Puglia. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243