The region of Lazio, in central Italy, is not known for its wines. However, it does have a few aces up its sleeve and this Grechetto-based wine (with fruit sourced from five different vineyards) is one of them. Thanks to its brilliant golden color and rich aromas of stone fruit, honey and caramel, this is a wine that pairs majestically with lobster, crab and smoked salmon.——M.L.(12/1/2007)—— 90