The 2006 Pinot Noir Hawk’s View Vineyard is medium ruby-colored with brambly red fruit and herbal aromas. This is followed by a silky-textured wine with plenty of spicy red fruit flavors, good depth, and a persistent finish. Drink it over the next four years. Siduri Wines is a Pinot Noir specialist producing single vineyard bottlings in California and Oregon.Tel. (707) 578-3882; www.siduri.com

Kudos to Siduri for offering a serious Oregon Pinot Noir at alcohol levels (13%) reminiscent of Burgundy. It’s a welcome tilt for the state that once was tagged as the new world’s Burgundian hope, but which has sometimes seemed more like a California wannabe. Light and tart, this isn’t a complex wine but brings the delicate nuances of the grape, with cranberry, citrus and strawberry.——P.G.(4/1/2009)—— 88