The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a bit more marked by its wood component than the other wines in the Simonnet-Febvre portfolio, with subtle scents of vanillin and spice inflecting its bouquet of ripe citrus and crisp peach. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad-shouldered and textural, with the most power of all the wines in the range—and the most tight-knit profile too. This will merit a couple of years in the cellar.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos, which is aged 50% in barrel and 50% in stainless steel for 18 months, has an airy and detailed bouquet with apple blossom and fresh pear scents, unfurling nicely in the glass though not the most intense Les Clos this vintage. The palate is well balanced with sappy red apple and pear notes, fine mineralité, but needing to show a little more cohesion and detail on the intense finish.