The 2012 Alto Adige St. Magdalener Classico Huck am Bach is a blend of 90% Schiava and 10% Lagrein that has seen brief aging in large oak casks. The wine delivers an easy fruit presentation with wild berries and cassis backed by black olive and licorice. There's also a burnt element that recalls campfire or toasted walnut shell that gives the wine a rustic, raw personality.

The 2009 St. Magdalener Classico Huck am Bach is a pretty wine graced with berries, sweet spices and flowers. This feminine, delicate red will offer its finest drinking over the next year or two. It is an impeccably balanced, classy St. Magdalener, something I can’t say as often as I would like. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. The Cantina Produttori Bolzano-St. Magdalena makes a wide range of wines, the best of which are well worth seeking out.Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243