The 2006 Shiraz was aged for 18 months in French and American oak. It is deep crimson-colored with an alluring perfume of smoke, mineral, game, and blueberry. This leads to a forward, savory, plush wine with solid depth and grip. Drink it over the next six years. The tiny St. Mary’s winery is literally within spitting distance of the Coonawarra demarcation line and its omission is a political hot potato. Be that as it may, proprietor/vigneron Barry Mulligan is making wine on a par with most of the wineries in the more prestigious GI.Importer:Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (714) 892-3030

The dark ruby-colored 2004 Shiraz was aged for 18 months in French and American oak. Notes of cedar, pepper, lavender, spice box, and blueberry appear in the attractive bouquet. Medium-bodied and made in a forward, elegant style, the wine is nicely balanced with ample ripe fruit and soft tannins. Drink it now and over the next 6 years.Importer: Ken Onish and John Gorman, Southern Starz; tel. (714) 892-3030

Earthy, gamy flavors rob the wine of any charm. Drink now through 2010. 500 cases made. -HS

The dark plum/purple-colored 2003 Shiraz’s long aging (24 months) in American and French oak may account for some of its muted, more restrained fruit character. Berry, spice, earth, herb, and chocolate aromas and flavors are found in this lovely effort. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.Importer: Ken Onish & John Gorman, Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (714) 892-3030

Juicy and vibrant with acidity, but beautifully fleshed out with blackberry, cherry and mineral flavors, finishing with a burst. Best from 2005 through 2010. 500 cases made. -HS