The estate’s 2009 Chardonnay is an attractive white that seems to speak more about Alto Adige than Chardonnay per se. A clean, minerally finish frames a core of expressive white peaches through to the focused finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

The 2008 Chardonnay is marked more by an expression of terroir than it is grape variety. This is undoubtedly a well made wine, and it shows attractive focus and energy, although it would be very hard to pick as a Chardonnay in a blind tasting. Still, it is a commendable effort at this price point. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2010. St. Michele Eppan, one of Alto Adige’s most venerable properties, is also known by its Italian name, San Michele Appiano. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808