The 2010 Pinot Grigio Anger is a pretty, focused wine laced with flint, gunpowder, white stone fruits and crushed rocks. This is an especially taut, wiry style of Pinot Grigio that captures the essence of Alto Adige. With time in the glass the wine gains additional volume and depth, yet remains pointed and nicely articulated throughout. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. I found many delicious wines in this lineup from St. Michael Eppan. The house is best known for their top of the line Sanct-Valentin wines that emphasize textural softness. As good as those wines can be, the sweet spot at St. Michael lies just below, in the vineyard-designated range. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461, Classic Wine Imports, Norwood, MA, Siena Imports, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 285-9675

The estate’s 2009 Pinot Grigio Anger is a perfect example of the overachieving whites that can be found in the mid-level price range of top wineries. A rich, textured white, the Anger impresses for its generous, inviting personality and succulent fruit. Juicy peaches and apricots linger on the inviting, creamy finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. San Michele Appiano is an excellent source for delicious wines that deliver considerable pleasure. The top of the line Sanct Valentin wines are made in a style that seeks softness and textural richness, while the best values are the mid-range offerings.Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

The 2008 Pinot Grigio Anger is a ripe, expansive wine that caresses the palate with its generous, soft-textured fruit. The wine possesses plenty of varietal character in a slightly richer style than the normal bottling. It, too, is an excellent value, and is highly recommended. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. St. Michele Eppan, one of Alto Adige’s most venerable properties, is also known by its Italian name, San Michele Appiano. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

A riper expression of perfumed fruit dominates over elements of minerality in the 2007 Pinot Grigio Anger. This is a relatively round, soft style of Pinot Grigio, yet the wine offers notable length as well as poise. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. San Michele Appiano is another of Alto Adige’s cooperatives making gorgeous wines. The strengths here are the whites. As is the custom in this part of Italy, San Michele Appiano offers several ranges of quality, in this case three, two of which fall into the under-$25 level. Wines in the ‘Classic’ line are fermented and aged in steel, while wines in the ‘Cru’ line are partially fermented in cask.Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

Loads of honey, peach and melon shape a softer, rounder Pinot Grigio that is not big in the mouth but is well-made all around (partially aged in oak casks). Imported by Martin Scott Wines. ——M.L.(2/1/2006)—— 86