Umbrian Pinot Grigio may not be as well known as the crisp, elegant (and pricey) wines from veneto, but for six bucks you get a plump, round, fruity dleight, with true varietal character. Its fresh, sweet pears, weightier and less steely thatn the versions from norther Italy, end in a clean, full finish. ——P.G.(11/15/2001)—— 87