Symington Family Estates Vale Do Bomfim Reserva (Dow)

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The 2009 Reserva “Vale Do Bomfim” (Dow) is predominantly Touriga Nacional, aged for 12 months in American oak. Oak is surely the dominant impression, which is too bad since it is a nicely constructed wine, graceful, with moderate depth and a sunny feel. Calling it Touriga Nacional is almost besides the point, though, given the oak treatment, as the grape seems largely submerged at the moment. Perhaps a little time will help it. Drink now-2017. Importer: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, Ca.; tel. (415) 554-9920

The 2005 RESERVA “VALE DO BOMFIM” (DOW) is a blend of Touriga Franca (45%), Tinta Roriz (30%), Touriga Nacional (20%) and Tinta Barroca (5%). It is grapey and utterly primary, seeming almost like a barrel sample. There is a certain richness to it that makes it a good value in its price range, although it has a certain simplicity to it as well. I liked the 2004 version more for its charm, balance and structure, but this has merits of its own, including its velvety texture, creamy edges and tasty fruit. Its ripe tannins become apparent after an hour or so and give the wine some verve, which it needed. Although the oak is a bit prominent now, a few months of cellaring should help a lot. There were 5,000 cases produced. Drink now—2011. Importer for Vale do Bomfim: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, Ca.; tel: (415) 554-9920. Importer for the Altano wines: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel: (205) 980-8802.

The 2004 Vale do Bomfim Reserva (Dow) is such a fine deal. This is probably one of my favorite value picks in this report. This Douro red is part of the Dow family of wines in the Symington stable, since it comes from vineyards that normally supply Dow. This is a blend of Tinta Roriz (40%), Touriga Franca (40%) and Tinta Barroca for the rest. It spends some time in American oak, but only six months, and some of the barrels are second year rather than new, so the oak is not particularly intrusive. It is exuberant, fruity and flat out delicious. The texture is soft and round. The only thing wrong with it, if you could call it that, is that it is a wine likely to be on the early maturing side, and that tends to constrain my scoring. Yet it is not just a fruit bomb, and there are light tannins to provide some liveliness and verve. The wine can actually improve with another year or so in the cellar, I think. There were 5,000 cases made. Drink now-2010. Symington is, of course, one of the fabled names in the Douro, owning Warres, Dow’s, Graham’s and other famous Port houses. Their dry wines seem to be coming along fine, too, particularly their partnership with Bruno Prats of Cos d’Estournel fame (separately listed under Prats & Symington). The basic Altano wines are a super deal, and the Vale do Bomfim is one of the best buys in this report. The Symington partnership with Joao van Zeller at Quinta de Roriz (also listed separately) is very successful as well. As I look over my notes, few, if any, wineries were providing more value for the money than the Symingtons, from their own estates and their various partnerships, although they certainly have some pricey upper level bottlings as well.Importer for the Altano wines: Vineyard Brands. Importer for Vale do Bomfim: Premium Port Wines, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 554-9920