This small planting at Celilo can stand as the textbook example of what Washington Pinot Noir should be: elegant, refined, aromatic, svelte and graceful. It’s definitely a feminine wine, in all the best senses of the word. Though light, it’s not thin or wimpy. The tart red fruits lead into streaks of earth and metal in the finish, which has surprising length and grip.——P.G.(10/1/2008)—— 89