Though this dessert wine is already excellent, it’s quite exciting to imagine how good it will be as its delicate flavors mingle over time. Made by the Szepsy family, whose roots go centuries (perhaps 1,000 years) deep in Hungary, the wine starts with a dense, slightly musky but floral nose. On the tongue, apricot, honey and spice mingle in a rich, opulent union, buoyed by a sparkling acidity that keeps the wine light and pretty.——S.K.(12/1/2007)—— 93