The three sweet wine offerings include the 2006 Vin de Paille Quintessence, a 100% Roussanne cuvee possessing 280 grams of residual sugar per liter, and 8.6% alcohol. It reveals an unctuous, 10W40 motor oil-like viscosity in addition to abundant amounts of marmalade, coffee, and brown sugar notes. With surprisingly fine acidity, it is neither cloying nor heavy. This Paso Robles outpost is owned by two Francophiles, Frenchman Francois Perrin (one of the owners of the Rhone Valley's Chateau Beaucastel) and Robert Haas (founder of the import company Vineyard Brands, and a pioneer importer of estate-bottled French wines). Seeking out steep limestone ridges near the Pacific Ocean, Tablas Creek was a work in progress for its first four to five years, but it has come on like gang-busters in the 21st century. The 2007s are unquestionably their finest wines to date, but readers should not overlook the excellent 2006s.Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314

The knock-out 2005 Vin de Paille Quintessence is unctuously textured, full-bodied, rich, thick, and juicy, with loads of glycerin, and plenty of honeyed orange, peach, and syrupy marmalade-like notes. A high level of residual sugar and a good 12-13% alcohol give this wine plenty of punch, power, and potential longevity. It should last for at least 20 years if not longer. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314