The 2009 Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard shows good up-front juiciness but loses some persistence on the mid-palate. Dark fruit and sweet spices linger on the finish. This is an attractive wine that lacks the pedigree of the finest wines here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I tasted a wide range of wines from Tantara, including a whopping 12 different Pinots. I can certainly understand the appeal of vinifying small lots of fruit from a large number of top sites in the Central Coast, but it must be a huge challenge to properly supervise the growing of fruit in sites that run from Arroyo Grande to the Santa Lucia Highlands. These 2009 Pinots suggest a little more focus on fewer appellations might not be a bad thing.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036; tantarawinery.com

The 2008 Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard, which is planted with the Pisoni clone of Pinot Noir (believed to be suitcased in from one of the grand cru vineyards in Burgundy) has a medium ruby garnet color and a sweet nose of raspberries, pomegranate, plum, and earth. This medium-bodied wine displays silky tannins and, again, loads of spice and earth. It was 100% destemmed and aged in 60% new French oak before being bottled. It should drink nicely for 2-6 years. This is a dizzying array of wines, including four Chardonnays and eleven Pinot Noirs. Perhaps it is overkill, but the quality of the wines is very high, and Tantara remains one of the bright, shining spots for these varietals on the Central Coast. Among the four Chardonnays, two are from the Santa Maria Valley, the Dierberg and the Bien Nacido, the Talley-Rincon is from Edna Valley’s Arroyo Grande appellation, and the Brosseau from the limestone soils of Chalone. The Pinot Noirs essentially cover virtually every Central Coast appellation, from the Santa Lucia Highlands in the north to the Santa Maria Valley in the south.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

One of the sexiest, but also more superficial wines is the 2007 Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard. Attractive black currant, black cherry, floral, smoke, and forest floor notes are apparent in both the aromas and the attack. This medium-bodied, front end loaded Pinot falls off slightly on the palate, and is best drunk over the next 5-6 years. This is a fascinating, exceptionally high quality group of Pinot Noirs. They tend to range in the mid-14% alcohol levels, with the oak regime generally around 30-60% new. Tantara’s policy with respect to fermenting with stems varies from zero to as much as 20% for the Dierberg, Evelyn, Bien Nacido Old Vine, and Solomon Hills. Production is relatively limited, from a low of under 90 cases for the Bien Nacido Old Vine and Brosseau, to just over 200 cases for some vineyards. The most limited cuvees are the two single vineyard lots of Burt and La Grande Colline, approximately 24 cases of each. Most of these wines, save for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. Kudos to Tantara for a very impressive line-up of Pinots.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

Tantara has performed exceptionally well with their outstanding cuvees from the Santa Lucia Highlands. The 2005 Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard exhibits glorious notes of flowers, damp humus/forest floor, smoke, meat, and sweet currants as well as cherries. Deep, full-bodied, and complex, it is very grand cru Morey-St.-Denis-like in its personality and style, but it reveals more fruit than any Burgundy would at this age. Consume it over the next 5-7 years. Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

Raspberry, forest floor, and smoky game-like aromas soar from the seductive, sexy 2004 Pinot Noir Garys’ Vineyard. It offers a deep ruby/purple hue, medium to full body, and a seamless, up-front, hedonistic personality. Enjoy it over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (805) 938-5050