The lightest of the Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noirs is the 2008 Pinot Noir Silacci Vineyard. One hundred percent destemmed and aged in 40% new oak for 16 months, this wine is limited in availability but fresh and lively, with red currants intermixed with sweet and sour cherries, and hints of raspberry and sassafras. The wine is spicy, earthy, medium-bodied, and best drunk over the next 3-4 years. This is a dizzying array of wines, including four Chardonnays and eleven Pinot Noirs. Perhaps it is overkill, but the quality of the wines is very high, and Tantara remains one of the bright, shining spots for these varietals on the Central Coast. Among the four Chardonnays, two are from the Santa Maria Valley, the Dierberg and the Bien Nacido, the Talley-Rincon is from Edna Valley’s Arroyo Grande appellation, and the Brosseau from the limestone soils of Chalone. The Pinot Noirs essentially cover virtually every Central Coast appellation, from the Santa Lucia Highlands in the north to the Santa Maria Valley in the south.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

The 2007 Pinot Noir Silacci Vineyard has no stems included, and possesses the lowest alcohol level (13.3%) of this group. It reveals tart, cool climate aromas of pomegranate and sour cherries intermixed with notions of porcini mushrooms and leafy vegetation. Crisp, elegant, and fresh, it lacks ripeness, but is a good effort overall. This is a fascinating, exceptionally high quality group of Pinot Noirs. They tend to range in the mid-14% alcohol levels, with the oak regime generally around 30-60% new. Tantara’s policy with respect to fermenting with stems varies from zero to as much as 20% for the Dierberg, Evelyn, Bien Nacido Old Vine, and Solomon Hills. Production is relatively limited, from a low of under 90 cases for the Bien Nacido Old Vine and Brosseau, to just over 200 cases for some vineyards. The most limited cuvees are the two single vineyard lots of Burt and La Grande Colline, approximately 24 cases of each. Most of these wines, save for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. for a handful of exceptions that are noted, are capable of lasting 8-10 years or more. Kudos to Tantara for a very impressive line-up of Pinots.Tel. (805) 938-5051; Fax (805) 938-0036

The dark ruby/plum/purple-tinged 2004 Pinot Noir Silacci Vineyard displays more of a Syrah than Pinot Noir character at present. With additional aging, its Pinot personality should evolve as it possesses plum, blackberry, and currant notes along with spice, smoke, and meat. This is a big, mouth-staining offering to drink over the next 7-8 years. Tel. (805) 938-5050