In 1995, there is only one cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape. The closed 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Garrigues displays a dense ruby/purple color, and a tight set of aromatics that exhibit some new oak and jammy cherry/plum scents. This is the only Tardieu-Laurent offering where the wood still dominates the wine's personality. There is a good mouthfeel, with layers of fruit, full body, excellent purity as well as overall balance, but the wine is tannic and closed, with considerable structure. It offers accessibility (largely because of its 15% natural alcohol), but it should be purchased only by those who are willing to cellar it for 3-4 years. This wine has a minimum of 15 years of evolution ahead of it.As a postscript, readers should be aware that all the Tardieu-Laurent wines reviewed in this segment are very reasonably priced.A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42843822), various American importers