The 100% Syrah, the 2003 VDP d’Oc Les Grands Augustins (made from 15-30-year old vines) is a flashy, bistro-styled, deep ruby-hued effort revealing sweet, straightforward black currant fruit intermixed with a touch of licorice. Medium-bodied and plump, it should be consumed over the next 1-3 years. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808 and Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029

There are just under 7,000 cases of the remarkable 1999 Les Grands Augustins. This wine, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan, exhibits a black/purple color in addition to a straightforward bouquet of creme de cassis, licorice, and minerals. With a long, full-bodied, gorgeously-textured mid-palate and finish, it should drink well for 5-7 years. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris fax # 011 33 1 42 84 38 22), various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0130, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625

Although not complex, the 1998 Les Grands Augustins VDP d'Oc (80% Syrah, 10% Merlot, and 10% Grenache) offers a black ruby color as well as sweet, straightforward, jammy, blackberry/cassis fruit, and a full-bodied, fleshy mouth-feel. Drink this supple fruit bomb over the next 1-3 years. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. 516-327-0808.