Opening to an exceptionally light ruby color, the 2019 Etna Rosso Contrada Pianodario is beautifully delicate and lean throughout. Personally, I love this style, and the folks at Tascante have nailed it on the head in this vintage that is, counterintuitively, known for concentrated wines, although you'd never say that while admiring the luminous hue on display here. There is good firmness and structure, achieved during fermentation on the skins and aging in traditional Slavonian oak casks. The bouquet is elegantly redolent of wild raspberry, bitter almond and blue flower. There are dusty volcanic notes as well. Only 5,700 bottles were made. Kudos!

A lovely red for a porcini recipe, the 2017 Etna Rosso Contrada Pianodario reveals a delicate and silky fiber with a fine embroidery of red fruit, cassis, smoke, tar and pressed flowers. The Tasca take on Etna underlines purity and elegance, and there are few extra bells, whistles or other distractions. The wine brings you to the essence of the volcano with some hot-vintage ripeness and roundness. Pianodario is located in Randazzo on the northern side of Etna.

One of three new single-vineyard wines introduced by Tasca's Tascante, the 2016 Etna Rosso Contrada Pianodario comes from the western-most parcel located between Montelaguardia and Randazzo. These are relatively new vines, planted in 2010, in soils representing various lava flows, the oldest in 1646 and the newest in 1981. This is a bright and accessible wine with pretty tones of wild berry and dried pomegranate followed by candied orange and pressed violets. It will no doubt be exciting to follow this wine as those vines get, proverbially speaking, older and wiser. Some 5,000 bottles were made.