The 2008 Cortona Syrah is a ridiculously good wine for the money. Rich dark fruit, violets, leather, licorice and spices swirl around in the glass with a captivating personality. The tannins could use a touch more polish and I suppose this could be more varietally expressive, but the absolute quality of what is in the glass is beyond reproach. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. D’Alessandro, one of the historic estates in Tuscany, continues to make important strides under the leadership of consultant Luca Currado.Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

The 2007 Syrah is soft and caressing in its generous dark fruit. This entry-level red from D’Alessandro shows good length, and while some complexity may be lacking, the wine’s balance and sheer drinkability more than compensate. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. This is a beautiful set of new wines from D’Alessandro, a venerable property in Cortona that seems to be finding an inspired level of quality under its new ownership and the winemaking team led by Luca Currado of Vietti. These 2006s were already in barrel when Currado arrived. One of the first things he did was take the wines out of barrel earlier than had been the case in previous years. Currado has purchased large casks from Gamba, the renowned Piedmontese cooper, for upcoming vintages. Needless to say, it will be quite fascinating to see the direction these wines take in coming years.Importer: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NJ tel. (914) 769-3000