The single-vineyard 2008 Cortona Syrah Migliara fleshes out beautifully in the glass with layers of dark red fruit that fill out the wine’s broad shouldered frame nicely. The Migliara is at once more perfumed and higher toned than Il Bosco, with an expression of fruit that tends towards the red end of the spectrum. Fine, polished tannins round out the creamy finish. Here, too, the wine remains extremely primary with little in the way of aromatic development or complexity at this early stage. A small amount of Viognier is added at the final blend. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. This is another strong set of wines from D’Alessandro. The wines have improved dramatically since Luca Currado joined the fold a few years ago. The 2008 Syrahs saw an extended period of skin contact, beginning with a 5 day cold soak. The wines went in French oak barrels (20%new) for the malolactic fermentations, and were then racked into cask, where they completed their aging, a very Vietti-like elevage that has produced marvelous results thus far. This year the wines are more similar in quality than last year, which may reflect the additional emphasis the estate has made on improving Il Bosco. In 2008 Il Bosco is darker and more about broad brush strokes while Migliara is delicate and all about detail. They are both terrific.Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae CA; tel. (415) 499 8466, MS Walker, Warren, RI; tel. (401) 247-0646

The estate’s 2007 Syrah Migliara, from an old-vine plot, impresses for its detail, nuance and clarity. In many ways it reminds me of Angelo Gaja’s Sori Tildin in its jewel-like precision and multi-faceted personality. Impossibly fine, ripe tannins frame perfumed red fruit, mint, minerals and spices all the way through to a sublime, eternal finish that seems to never end. What a thrill it will be to follow this wine in the coming years. Readers will have a hard time not opening this now, but the Migliara should be even better in a few years. Today it is merely magnificent. Stylistically the Migliara is more refined than Il Bosco. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. It is hard to believe the huge jump in quality this venerable estate has undergone in just the last few years. Luca Currado of Vietti has instilled a Piedmontese sense of discipline that entails greater attention in the vineyards, more cleanliness in the cellar and the use of Slavonian oak casks, among other things. Vintage 2007 is the first harvest Currado and his team of coworkers followed from start to finish, and the results are hugely impressive. It certainly seems like the sky is the limit here.Importer: HERES/USA, Aldo Zaninotto; tel. (312) 953-5741

The 2006 Cortona Syrah Migliara is a selection made from the estate’s finest fruit. It is an especially vibrant, full-bodied wine that bursts onto the palate with an explosion of fruit. This, too, will require patience, but the wine boasts extraordinary purity and a level of textural finesse that insures it will drink beautifully for a number of years. 2006 is the first vintage for the Migliara, an old-vine parcel that had always been vinified and aged separately, but was previously blended into Il Bosco. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. This is a beautiful set of new wines from D’Alessandro, a venerable property in Cortona that seems to be finding an inspired level of quality under its new ownership and the winemaking team led by Luca Currado of Vietti. These 2006s were already in barrel when Currado arrived. One of the first things he did was take the wines out of barrel earlier than had been the case in previous years. Currado has purchased large casks from Gamba, the renowned Piedmontese cooper, for upcoming vintages. Needless to say, it will be quite fascinating to see the direction these wines take in coming years.Importer: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NJ tel. (914) 769-3000