Longtime fans of this wine as well as big-name bounty hunters should be happy enough with the ’96 version, if their expectations aren’t too high. It’s full of expressive black-currant, smoke and earth notes. Plenty of chocolate and delicious red fruit flows onto the smooth palate and moderately long finish. It fades away gracefully. Maybe a step down from the ’95, but still very, very sound.——M.S.(7/1/2000)—— 92

A superb wine; one of the greats. Plush like your favorite pillow, but sophisticated like a fine Italian leather sofa, this is a sumptuous, flawless red wine that is shockingly good. Though still young, Ornellaia is totally approachable. A short hour or two of breathing will prepare this beauty for current consumption. A classic. Grazie!——M.S.(5/1/1999)—— 96