Lenz’s 2007 Chardonnay Old Vines represents a barrel selection from their so-called “gold” bottling. “It takes 50 barrels of that wine,” says Fry, “to find 16 that will go into this select blend.” White peach, baked apple, and toasted hazelnut in the nose follow on a palate more transparent and refreshing than that of the corresponding “gold” cuvee and leading to a satisfying finish. This cuvee has been known to age nicely for a decade, but I would still opt for drinking this 2007 soon. Micro-biologist Eric Fry reached New York from his native California 25 years ago on the recommendation of mentor Andre Tchelistcheff and has long ago become a Long Island veteran. He and owner Peter J. Carroll follow a release regimen that would give most winery proprietors headaches and heartburn not to mention red ink, with whites usually appearing a couple of years after harvest, while red wines and the estate’s wonderful sparkling wines are typically released after four or more years. Fry believes oxygen is a friend at the right time, and his reds often get “splashed” following what usually are very slow malos; are given extended time in barrel before racking to tank; and are bottled extremely late.Tel. (631) 364-8403