Coming from the oldest vines of the estate and one of the best vineyards in the world for Syrah, the 2012 Cornas Reynard is a massive, thick and unctuous effort that's bursting at the seams with notions of crème de cassis, crushed violets, smoked game and incredible minerality. Just a sensational Cornas that surpasses what was achieved in 2009 and 2010, this full-bodied, concentrated and structured effort has the fruit to be enjoyable now (this is a common trait of the vintage), yet has the depth, richness and balance to evolve for over two decades. It doesn't come cheap, but it's up there with some of the finest Syrahs made.

More austere and structured, the 2010 Cornas Reynard offers up a thrilling array of graphite, crushed rock, liquid violet and both black and blue fruits on the nose. Gaining hints of bacon fat and game with air, it hits the palate with a full-bodied, rich and concentrated profile that carries masses of sweet tannin, bright acidity and serious length. Give it 3-4 years of cellaring and enjoy it over the following two decades. Thierry Allemand has been working the steep slopes just outside the town of Cornas since 1982, when he planted his own vineyard. Since then, he has slowly added plots, and now has roughly 10 acres under vine, most in prime spots and granite soils. The winemaking here is very traditional, with little destemming and the wines spending up to two years in older barrels and foudre, with little racking, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. He normally releases two Cornas; the younger vine cuvee, the Chaillot, which comes from vines from 5 to 40 years in age, and the older vine cuvee, the Reynard, which comes from the oldest vines on the estate (34- to 90-year-old vines). Looking at the 2010s, the wines are more fresh, focused and austere than the 2009s, with additional purity and focus.