From the very fine 2007 vintage comes this surprisingly tannic Cabernet. Even at the age of more than four years, it’s still tough and astringent. It has a sweet core of blackberries, and it’s tempting to recommend aging. But there’s a troubling touch of raisins, so drink up.——S.H.(4/1/2012)—— 87

Tannins mark this tough, still young wine from beginning to end. The astringency envelops the fruit, giving the mouthfeel a hard, dry astringency. Even though there are some well-developed blackberry and currant flavors, the wine is unrelieved in harshness. Try cellaring until at least 2013, but it’s risky.——S.H.(8/1/2010)—— 87

This is the sweetest, jammiest of Fogarty’s ’04 Cabs, and also the the tartest. It has the fruit acidity sharpness of cherry and black raspberry jam, as well as a firm tannic structure. Could develop bottle complexity over the years, but there’s a certain thinness that raises eyebrows. ——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 86