The 2004 Crianza spent 12 months in American oak. Dark ruby-colored, it displays aromas of earth, mineral, violets, black cherry, and blackberry. On the palate it is has a solid core of fruit in a straightforward style. It will evolve for 1-2 years but lacks the vibrancy one might expect from the outstanding 2004 vintage. Importer: New Age Imports, Verona, NJ; www.newageimports.net

Although the 2001 Crianza is slightly austere, it is a competent effort. Importer: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400.