One sniff, one taste, and it’s the ’99 vintage all the way. Just packed with superlative berry-cherry-chocolate fruit, and so rich, so balanced. The tannins and acids do a sort of minuet with each other. Dry, stylish, complex and immediately drinkable, this is a super wine to have with, say, roast pork. ——J.M.(6/1/2002)—— 91