The 2005 Shiraz “Deer in the Headlights” offers a fragrant perfume of cedar, leather, lavender, pepper, and blueberry compote. Ripe, round, and deep, the wine is velvety textured with hints of chocolate emerging on the mid-palate. The finish is long and fruit-filled. Drink this tasty Shiraz over the next 6-8 years. Two Hands is a negociant operation run impeccably by Michael Twelftree. It reflects the best that can be sourced from all over South Australia. The packaging provides some serious design competition to Dan Philips’ Grateful Palate and R Wines portfolio.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com; Also tasted: 2007 Riesling “The Wolf” (82)

Eden Valley’s dense blue/purple-hued 2002 Shiraz Deer in the Headlights is sensational. A spectacular nose of creme de cassis, blackberries, vanilla beans, and espresso is accompanied by a massive yet remarkably elegant Shiraz with tremendous precision and oodles of fruit and glycerin. Stunningly proportioned, fresh, and lively for its size, it reveals the potential to drink well young, yet evolve for a decade or more. Importer: Vine Street Imports, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 533-9463