There are only a few pockets of vineyard land in Italy with the correct levels of fog or moisture for noble rot (botrytis) and the Marche is one of them. But 2003 was a sweltering hot year and as a result this Sauvignon-based dessert wine lacks its characteristic intensity. You do get apricot, peach and honey over the wine’s lean consistency and there’s a slightly sour taste on the finish.——M.L.(12/1/2007)—— 86