The 2006 Marche Rosso Pelago is Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano and Merlot, a combination that works exquisitely here. This dark, jammy red flows onto the palate with blueberry preserves, cassis, sweet herbs, violets and licorice in a full-bodied, sumptuous style. All of the elements come together very nicely, even if the tannins need another few years to full integrate. The Pelago is the most convincing of these new releases from Umani Ronchi. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725

The 2005 Pelago is Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano and Merlot. An intense, deeply-colored wine, the Pelago offers up plenty of dark cherries, plums, earthiness, grilled herbs and toasted oak in a rich, concentrated style, yet the tannins lack the polish and finesse that might take this wine to another level. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Umani Ronchi is one of the Marche’s historic properties. The entry-level wines offer lovely balance but many of the top selections come across as overdone, particularly when it comes to the use of French oak.Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725

This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano and Merlot offers thick density and a dark core of extracted black fruit, plum, prune and leafy vegetable. You’ll also get espresso bean and dark chocolate and a gritty, thick drinking experience.——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 91