Made from 40-year-old vines, this blend, dominated by Zweigelt, but also with some Blaufrankisch and Cabernet Sauvignon, is concentrated and intensely fruity, with an elegant, smooth texture that only hints at the concentrated tannic structure underneath. It’s not hugely powerful; it’s more sensuous and deliciously long-lasting.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 91