The Vaona 2019 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso Pegrandi shows dark, plummy fruit with tarry spice. To my mind, these are two classic components of a Ripasso made with fresh wine that is re-fermented on the skins of air-dried fruit. There is an evident hint of dark cherry sweetness that is well integrated into the mid-weight texture of this fruit-forward red. Production is 30,000 bottles.

The Vaona 2018 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso Pegrandi is lovely and bright with deep and lasting fruit tones such as dried cherry and plum. Those dark fruit tones are backed by delicate sweetness and soft tannins. The wine is mid-weight in texture but ultimately feels richer and more concentrated thanks to all that sweet fruit layering. Some 35,000 bottles were rolled out. This 14.5%-alcohol Ripasso (made with 35% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 5% Molinara) would be an excellent choice for a risotto dinner.

The 2016 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso Pegrandi is a tight and compact expression with lots of rich black fruit packed tight at the core. That fruit is framed by subtle lines of spice, smoke and tar. The blend is 35% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 5% Molinara. The slightly cooler conditions of this vintage have gone a long way to give the wine sharpness and a more focused approach. Some 35,000 bottles were made.

The 2011 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore is a dense and thickly textured red wine that would stand up to wintery dishes or the strong flavors of lamb or game meat. The bouquet opens to prune, black currant, tobacco, balsam herb and anisette-like freshness. It shows firm power and heft in the mouth. Drink 2014-2017. Alberto Vaona farms ten hectares of vines located on hillsides that range from a comfortable 200 to 250 meters above sea level, trained with both the traditional Pergola and Guyot systems. The selection of top Amarones that carry the Pegrandi designation are consistently among the best in the region. Importer: Premium Brands Inc., www.paoloboselli.com

Offering good value at a low price, Ripasso Pegrandi is a crisp, focused and polished blend from Valpolicella with an immediate and food-friendly style. Its soft, plush texture is washed clean off the palate thanks to the natural acidity. ——M.L.(12/1/2011)—— 87