One of the top wines in this portfolio is the 2012 Vacqueyras Eternite. A blend of Grenache and Syrah that sees close to two years in barrel, its inky purple color is followed by solid notes of cassis, licorice, singed leather and charred meats. Medium to full-bodied, rounded, supple and ripe, with lots of fruit and a hard to resist style, it will drink nicely for 5-7 years.

The top cuvees include the 2010 Vacqueyras Eternite, which is primarily aged in tank with about 20% of the Syrah and Mourvedre spending time in new oak. The average age of the vines is 50 years. It offers great fruit on the attack, mid-palate and finish with lots of kirsch, black currant, blueberry and graphite notes. Impressively textured, powerful and long with sweet tannin, it should drink well for 7-10 years. Both are well made wines, but whether the high prices they demand means they are that much better than their siblings is debatable. Vignerons de Charactere is a large cooperative that controls nearly 1,300 acres in Vacqueyras from many growers/domaines from which they bottle many of their single domaine wines. The quality is impeccably high as this is one of the best run coops in southern France. These cuvees range in price from a low of $20 to as much as $75, but most are in the $25 range. They are located on the road to Vaison La Romain north of Vacqueyras itself. The wines listed include all my favorite cuvees, and they all merit serious attention. Various American importers, including Importer: W. J. Deutsch and Sons, Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; Ideal Wine & Spirits, Medford, MA, tel. (781) 395-3300; and Fruit of the Vines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 765-2970

The 2009 Vacqueyras Eternite is dominated by Grenache with Syrah and Mourvedre added in. It exhibits the blackest color of any of these cuvees and clearly shows a more modern style with some new oak in evidence. Espresso roast, white chocolate and toast notes emerge along with dense kirsch and black currant fruit intermixed with hints of licorice, loamy soil and Provencal herbs. This deep, full-bodied, opulent, concentrated, impressively rich, textured, full-throttle Vacqueyras should drink well for 7-8 years. (Not yet released) This is a well-run large cooperative in Vacqueyras that admirably displays the talent involved. I tasted a dozen separate cuvees from this operation and six of them were potentially outstanding. Most of the others were competent, correct wines. This huge cooperative controls over 1,100 acres in Vacqueyras, and the wines are realistically priced for such high quality. The following six wines should change the mind of anyone with an anti-cooperative prejudice. Importers: Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392-5640; and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (800) 597-1491

The general style is one of fruity, good quality, commercially-styled wines that represent very good value, and are immediately appealing. All of the 2007s are fruit-laden, lush, and best drunk in their first 3-5 years of life. These wines are aged in tank prior to early bottling The terrific Cuvee de l’Eternite ,60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Part of the Syrah component of the latter wine is aged in oak.. I’ll keep my tasting notes brief as these are all well-made Vacqueyras that represent different blends, usually dominated by Grenache with various percentages of Syrah and Mourvedre added. Vinification tends to be traditional, with carbonic maceration employed for some cuvees. Importers: Fruit of the Vine, New York, NY, and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (800) 597-1491

Aromas of black fruits, sweet spice, meaty and intense iwth a vanilla touch. Dark, dense and intense cherry fruit - spicy, oaky, smoky and long.