The 2009 Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes, which comes from the coops’ oldest parcels of vines, should prove to be outstanding. It is dominated by Grenache, but includes a high percentage of Syrah, and is aged in small oak barrels. The most expensive of these cuvees, it is a concentrated, opaque ruby/purple-colored, modern-styled effort displaying some smoky oak. However, the oak component is mostly concealed by the wine’s abundant red and black fruits as well as an open-air Provencal street market characteristic. Multilayered and rich with silky tannins, it should drink nicely for 7-8 years. (Not yet released) This is a well-run large cooperative in Vacqueyras that admirably displays the talent involved. I tasted a dozen separate cuvees from this operation and six of them were potentially outstanding. Most of the others were competent, correct wines. This huge cooperative controls over 1,100 acres in Vacqueyras, and the wines are realistically priced for such high quality. The following six wines should change the mind of anyone with an anti-cooperative prejudice. Importers: Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392-5640; and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (800) 597-1491

The 2007 Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes (also a Grenache/Syrah blend that spent 12 months in foudre and 12 months in small barrels) reveals a dense purple color along with a sumptuous bouquet of licorice, creosote, roasted herbs, black currants, and blackberries. It reveals impressive density and richness as well as a full-bodied mouthfeel. Drink this well-made, long wine for 5-6 years. Importers: Fruit of the Vine, New York, NY; and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (800) 597-1491