This is the quintessentially perky wine: Crisp and snappy with bursting citrus notes including lemon drop, pink grapefruit and candied orange peel backed by delicate floral and jasmine aromas. Chalky, mineral notes round off a gorgeous nose. Designed according to Palladian principals in 1622, Villa Sandi is one of the most beautiful estates near Treviso. Owned by shoemaker Giancarlo Moretti Polegato, it has a one-kilometer long underground 17th-century gallery for red wine barrique aging.——M.L.(11/15/2005)—— 89