The 2005 Maioli is old-vine Dolcetto di Ovada. Medium in body, it reveals a soft core of red berries with an attractive chalkiness on the long finish. Ordinarily I would prefer Dolcetto on the young side but this is a wine that has the potential to develop for another two to three years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2003 Dolcetto di Ovada Maioli is an important wine for this little known appellation, ripe and plummy with almond and licorice notes, full and lengthy in flavor and round on the finish. This wine has a few years of drinking life ahead of it, but why not drink it for the pleasure it offers now? Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 398-5871