Plump and ready to drink, this is big and meaty stuff, and in the end it’s like so many ultraripe, fat Chardonnays from Chile. This doesn’t mean that there isn’t citrus on parade, all ending in a finish on tangerine alley. If it lacks nuance it makes up for it in ripeness of fruit.——M.S.(7/1/2008)—— 87

Heavy gold in color; a butterball of the first order. The nose is full of oak along with pear and apple. That’s backed by a palate of sweet corn, mango, banana and apple. Toasty on the finish, with a splinter of pithy bitterness. Good Casablanca acidity ensures pop on the tongue. Imported by Laird & Company. ——M.S.(12/15/2005)—— 86