This is Von Strasser’s first Malbec, and it’s an auspicious start. Shows the dark, chewy plumminess of Argentinian bottlings, with an importance of structure and tannins that’s typical of the winery’s red wines. Shows powerful but controlled dark fruit, currant, tobacco and cedar flavors, and should evolve over the next six years.——S.H.(6/1/2009)—— 92